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Boraso Tres Picos 2004: Oh What A Wine

Posted in Uncategorized by EVWG on the June 14th, 2006

Trespicos.jpgWell it was time to branch out. I was in a wine shop the other day looking for a good deal. Trying to find that wine or those wines that are reasonably priced and good in quality. I went to the Union Square Wine shop’s new location. I hadn’t been to the older one in a couple of years so I was pretty stoked to check it out. I will talk about shop it self later in another post. I need to go back again. This time I was not so impressed. Not sure if it was just that day or what. I will have to go back and figure it out. It has potential to be a great source of wine experimentation. I digress. Wandering around the store for about 25-30 minutes I picked wine up and put wine down and picked wine up and put wine down. It was a very indecisive moment in time. I settled upon two Spanish wines. I had been going crazy with the Argentinean and was initially looking for a blend from there but I got to thinking, I have tried some good stuff from Argentina. Let’s go to another intriguing region. Spain is a place I am still learning about. It has a very interesting wine history and is the land of sherry and the grapes tempranillo and granacha. There are plenty more grapes to explore from here but these are the most well known.
So I bought a granacha 100% and a more unique wine from a varietal called monastrell, which I believe is Spanish for mouverde. The second one I am saving for another time. I could not wait however to open the granacha. This grape originated in Spain and was later made famous in the Rhone valley of France. It became so popular there that the french pretty much claimed the grape as their own. But nonetheless this is a Spanish original and I wanted to see what it offered in its native environment. The producer of this wine is Boraso and it is a 100% granacha from the Campo de Borja area of Spain. Something else I found interesting is that is aged in stainless steel. No oak to add vanilla flavors. Good move. This was pretty exciting. For me it always is. I just had a good feeling about this wine. I don’t know why. I bought it on a gut feeling. Of course it was only $15 but so were others in the store. It had a shelf talker saying something about Robert parker but I don’t realty listen to him too much. I just picked it up and moment I had it in my hand I had to put down the other wines. Just did. And I am very glad.

Gal (the nose) was not available for this one but Mr. Wolf was present as well as my wife and another of our tasting team with well-rounded opinions Angus. We popped the cork and right away could tell it had some muscle to it just by looking at the darkly stained cork. You could smell the wine before it was even out of the bottle. The cork itself had spice on the nose. I poured tastes in our glasses and marveled at the inkiness of this wine. Swirling and coating the glass was very easy as the wine just clung to the walls of the glass. The first nose was quite intense. The alcohol was definitely prominent and the pepper was a bit overwhelming yet pleasant at the same time. I could tell that it was only a matter of time before that intensity would mellow. It was even happening as we sipped. Mr. Wolf was in heaven because he has an affinity for the wines from Spain so I knew just by looking at him that he was digging the wine. My wife seemed a little put off at first because of the intense nature of the nose but after awhile she warmed up to it as it evened out.
Angus mentioned as we took the first sip that the pepper was going up his nose and as he was saying it I felt the same thing. Upon the first sip the pepper was so strong it rushed up my nasal passage with a full on attack. This wine was fooling us all. Why, you may ask, because through all of this intensity there was a good acidity mingling with fruit. This is the rundown. At fist there is in tense pepper, which masks the fruit. The fruit is detectable because there is a soft tannin structure cutting through the pepper letting you experience a taste of what’s to come. On the palate, in the beginning the pepper and spice is all over the place but that acidity and fruit with the tannin are also there working together as you sip to meld into something great. It is very rich and rounded with dark fruit as it starts to open up.
As it opened the spice and pepper softened and the fruit began to come out and soften the wine even more. There was still some muscle and the wine went form spicy to chewy and jammy with tannins detectable on the finish. This is a wine that changes wonderfully as it breathes but not a wine that you would want to decant. After about a half hour of talking and tasting, this wine was in its perfect place. It was where it wanted to be from the beginning. All of its components were in harmony. Not decanting it allowed us to fully enjoy the subtleties of this great granacha. In the end the wine was mellow with a good amount of dark cherry on the nose and palate with a soft tannin structure and mildly prominent spice.
My wife, Mr. Wolf, Angus and myself were quite pleased with the experience. I personally loved this wine and want to somehow buy a case and just have it around. I wasn’t able to eat with it but I could imagine some sort of marinated chicken dish with sautéed spinach and a tomato salad of some sort. What I really liked about this wine was that it sees no oak whatsoever. It is aged in only stainless steel. It sees a long maceration period, which would explain the deep rich dark color. Man…this wine was enjoyable. At $15 you just can’t go wrong. Buy a couple of them and just have them around for a night with friends or a dinner with your significant other. Both scenarios go well with this wine.

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